Iron Fallout vs Tar & Glue Remover?
Contaminants on your paint aren’t always visible, but they’re still present - gradually breaking down your clear coat. That’s why a proper decontamination process requires both an iron remover and a tar remover. Let’s break down how each one works and when to use them.
Iron Fallout Removers
Designed specifically to remove bonded iron contamination from paintwork. Using a quality pH neutral Iron fallout remover is the quickest & safest way to deal with that stubborn iron contamination and brake dust on your paint or wheels.
How to use:
- Spray onto cool panels or wheels
- Allow to dwell for 3-5 minutes
- For wheels: Agitate the product using a wheel mitt or brush
- Rinse thoroughly
Tar & Glue Removers
A powerful solvent-based cleaner designed to dissolve stubborn sticky residues like road tar, asphalt, tree sap, and adhesive from stickers or badges. This is the safest way of lifting them from vehicle paint, glass, and other hard surfaces without causing damage when used correctly.
How to use:
- Spray the product directly onto the tar spots or bottom areas on the vehicle
- Allow to dwell for 1-2 minutes
- Gently wipe with a damp, soft microfibre cloth
- Rinse the area thoroughly
What order would I use these products in?
For decontamination, use tar remover first then iron remover which avoids dragging tar deposits over the paintwork when wiping off the fallout remover which can cause marring.
What to look for?
Iron Fallout looks like tiny orange or brown specks resembling rust spots embedded in the paintwork, especially visible on light coloured vehicles and often a rough texture even after washing.
When treated with an iron remover, these spots react and turn purple, indicating the particles are being dissolved and released from the surface, revealing the true extent of the contamination.
Tar looks like small, hard, back or brown spots and streaks usually around the lower parts of the vehicle and wheel arches, feeling rough to the touch especially after driving on hot roads.
